climbs with varying steepness. Some seek to storm the climb as quickly as possible, however, when the climb ends or when such bikers encounter steeper sections, their strength no longer allows them to go further. The secret is not to try to get through the climb as fast as possible. Sometimes It's wise to drive slowly up the hill. Then you can save the necessary forces. The main thing here, as you already understood, is a constant pace that you must adhere to. And you can always accelerate at the end of the ascent, if you have strength left. This is much better than starting bravely rushing up, and finishing the assault on the mountain half-dead, so then you have to retreat for some more time.
Choose your bike path well, avoid uneven areas that contain rocks and potholes.
Distribute your breath evenly. Remember that for a cyclist, as for a runner, it is extremely important to breathe properly. Deep and even breathing will allow you to progressively and without unnecessary jerks go towards your goal.
And finally, a small psychological point: to overcome the climb easier, focus your eyes on your goal. If you look to the top and convince yourself that you will reach it soon, then it will be so. But if you look only at the ground, then this will not give you an additional incentive. Make climbing interesting by maintaining the pace you have set. Then you will succeed.
If for some reason you stopped on the way to your goal, then this is not a reason to peacefully go uphill on foot. You can try to start again, although this will be much more difficult than on a flat surface. Therefore, the bike should be positioned sideways in relation to the ascent path. Having taken the start, you can again give the bike the right direction.
Training is an important aspect of achieving success in climbing. In training, you can try to apply all these tips, get a feel for the bike and balance, which is a little more difficult to maintain when climbing.
Now let's talk about the passage of those sections of the route that make our heart beat faster, about our favorite descents.

Descent technique
First of all, I would like to say that although the descents are a lot of fun, it is worth knowing how to pass them correctly. Otherwise, you can harm your health.
It will be useful, and even necessary, to purchase appropriate protection in order to remain safe and sound in the event of a fall. A helmet and gloves in this case are mandatory attributes of a biker.
Starting our conversation about the technique of passing descents, I would like to return to the example of a runner. If you haven't seen a runner come down a mountain, you might try to escape from some hill yourself. Feel how you intuitively tilt your upper body back, how your hands help you maintain balance. Naturally, if you tilted your body forward at this moment, you would certainly fly head over heels.
When climbing downhills, it is worth remembering this example in order to correctly choose the position of your body on the bike. Naturally, you should not stay in the saddle while you are going downhill. If you rest imposingly in the saddle, you risk experiencing the joy of flying through the steering wheel with all the ensuing consequences. It is very important to remember that the center of gravity while you are going downhill is approximately in the area of ​​​​the front wheel, and at the first bump, the rear wheel can easily come off the ground if you remain seated. But at the same time, if you unload the front wheel too much by moving too far back, then you will lose traction.
How to find the correct position of the body on the bike?
Of course, it is worth pushing your fifth point back. But the question is, how far should we go? In most publications, it is advised to move back as far as possible. But as we said, this can lead to the fact that our front wheel will always go astray from the intended course due to bumps.
Therefore, it is worth moving back exactly as much as the descent is steep. If the descent is not too steep, and you have moved back as much as possible, then it is likely that when you go through the pits, the front wheel will be very unstable, because you have deprived it of the necessary load from above. And if there are also turns on the descent, then it will be very difficult for you to direct the front wheel where necessary.
It is also important to know how to choose the correct position of your hands on the steering wheel. After all, it is how far your arms are bent at the elbows that determines how far you move back in the saddle. On the steepest descents, it is worth unloading the front wheel as much as possible. At this point, you can move back so that your arms are straightened. Don't be afraid to move back enough so that your belly is above the saddle.
On moderately steep descents, position your body on the bike so that your shoulders are at 90 degrees to the trail. Still, you should find just such a position of your hands when they will be the least tense. Mountain biking experts refer to this hand-relaxed position as "flying hands." Feeling lighter in your hands, you will be able to better pass not only descents, but also turns.
It is also worth considering that if you keep the pedals at 6 and 12 o'clock, you risk hitting your foot hard on the stones that will meet in your path, so you need to position the pedals so that the cranks are parallel to the ground.
One of the most important things to remember when climbing descents is the correct use of the brakes. If your cycling experience is small, then it is worth delaying the rapid passage of descents. First you need to get a good feel for your brakes. Most mountain bikes today have fairly powerful brakes. The problem is that if you lock the wheel while braking, you will fly over the handlebars. V-break brakes are particularly easy to block. Disc brakes have more modulation.
Some people think that using the front brake when going downhill is not necessary at all. This is far from true! Try the following experiment without getting on the bike: roll the bike forward and apply the rear brake until the wheel locks. What's happening? The bike is still possible to roll, except that the rear tire wears out. Now try rolling the bike with the front brake on and the rear brake on. Bicycle stop. The fact is that the front brake is more effective than the rear. It's just stupid not to use it on descents. If you use only the rear brake on descents, then you will not be able to brake effectively, and if you want to increase braking, you will block the rear wheel, which will lead to a skid.
Of course, it is the front brake that can give you trouble if you use it incorrectly. All mountain bike publications recommend using BOTH brakes anytime, anywhere. The only question is HOW to do it.
Remember: the harder you brake, the more you will be pulled forward. This means that you need to strongly rest your feet on the pedals in order to remain in the position “behind the saddle”.
By finding the correct body position on the bike, you can use both the rear and front brakes. Naturally, you need to feel good especially the front brake, since it depends on its use, then, whether you stay in the saddle or get ahead of the bike, "spreading your wings like a falcon." The rear brake also needs to be used skillfully. If you overbrake with the rear brake, you will begin to drift, which is also undesirable when going downhill.
By not using brakes on the “sausage,” as bikers simply call downhill sections full of roots and pits, you give your fork a better handle on bumps. By braking, you reduce the travel of the fork, its work will no longer be so perfect.
At the same time, it is worth remembering that if you brake on technical sections, you risk blocking the wheel. Moreover, the risk of blocking the wheel here is greater than when braking on gentle slopes without stones and potholes. Therefore, it is better to slow down on easy sections of the descent, while on technical sections it is better not to use the brakes. As a last resort, if you want to slow down, then it is worth doing it before you go through the bumps. If you apply the brake while going through a hole or pothole, then your chances of flying through the handlebars are almost one hundred percent.
Another practical point: by shifting to a higher gear, you will prevent the chain from beating against the frame. At the same time, you will be able to use a more profitable and convenient calculation of stars.
Your gaze should not be directed to the ground, but forward in order to track the upcoming technical sections of the track. This will help you slow down as you wish before going through technical sections.
And, of course, it is worth remembering the psychological side of the descent. If you start to get scared, you will certainly lose control of the bike. Excessive fear will make your knees tremble and your arms weak. You