cases, the impact should not be excessive, painful. It is used not as a punishment, but as a nuisance, an element of discomfort that the dog can avoid by performing the required action. Fear is a poor helper in training an animal, and the dog's educator removes it with affection, treats, or other encouragement immediately after the required technique is performed - a contrasting method of training.

Encouragement for a correctly executed command reinforces the reflex, makes the dog forget "troubles", provides the necessary contact with the caregiver and interest in the work.

A tidbit from the trainer's hands is the most common, but not always the most effective encouragement. It can and should be used, but it is irrational, and even impossible, to be limited only to a food stimulus.

A real caregiver uses a wide range of possible contacts with a four-legged friend.

A piece of food in a bowl is only food that only a hungry animal is interested in. And even a crumb of black bread received for performing a technique is a welcome reward for a smart, active being who craves activity and for whom serving people has become a need. The natural instincts of our pupils transform the earned piece as if into a hunting trophy, which even the most spoiled, well-fed dog greedily swallows.

Human attention, affectionate intonation, touch of the hand - no less effective encouragement than feeding, at least for many dogs with an increased craving for communication with the caregiver. Such contact must be brought up from the first days of the appearance of a puppy in the house. And in the future, the encouragement in training becomes what, it would seem, are unpleasant commands and manipulations, on the natural needs of the animal. The very activities with the puppy, teaching him to comply with your requirements and commands are also among the natural needs of this wonderful animal.

By maintaining interest in learning and in work, it is possible to ensure that seemingly unpleasant commands and manipulations, for example, “in place”, taking on a leash, even taking a temperature or administering a vaccine with a syringe, the dog will perceive as joy. After all, for unquestioning care to the place she is praised and treated, they take her on a leash not only to lead her home, but also before leaving the yard along an interesting route, and the slight pain from an injection during vaccination is completely compensated by affection and food reward.

Punishment in the process of raising a dog is inevitable. In a dog or wolf family, there is a strict discipline and hierarchy. A negligent student, a bully and a fool sometimes receive a blow with a fang, a painful grip or a “kick” with the shoulder from the elders, followed by a “notation” with a menacing growl.

Such "sanctions" by no means bring discord into the life of the pack, as well as punishment when raising a dog by a person. Only in training, punishment is a nuisance, and by no means retribution. It must immediately follow the undesirable action of the pupil, should not be excessive and even more prolonged.

Threatening intonation, jerking the leash, hitting with a whip - this is a list of penalties that are acceptable when training a dog. The choice and force of punishment must correspond to the peculiarities of the character of the pupil and the degree of his guilt. But in all cases, the punishment must be intelligible, that is, strong enough for the dog to feel it.

Threatening intonation should be backed up with a tougher "sanction", the blow should be sensitive, otherwise the dog perceives it as a flirtation or a sign of attention.

You can not hit with a hand or a leash. They should be a symbol of affection, trust and walk. The whip is uncomfortable, overwhelms, requires a wave from the shoulder, which inspires fear and distrust of the owner. And when hit with a whip, the movement of the hand is perceived not as the aggression of the trainer, but as a heavenly punishment.

It is useful for an arrogant male dog or a dissolute dog who decides to enter into a battle for supremacy with the owner, until he completely surrenders his positions.

An evil, dangerous dog is better and easier to pick up not at home or in his aviary, but on a walk in unfamiliar places where the bully does not feel so confident.

Everyone who gets a puppy dreams of a friend devoted only to him and his family. And the young pet, as if it were a sin, considers all the people of the world friends, ready to caress everyone he meets. It’s good if there is an acquaintance who, at your request, will lure the non-hearing and, grabbing the collar, will quilt two or three times, after which the owner will call him and caress him. Many, on the contrary, tug and whip the puppy, running away to others, thereby reinforcing the desire to escape from the "evil" owner to the "good" stranger uncle. And fighting with a puppy is not necessary at all. The dog clearly divides the world into its own and "strangers" at about one year of age.

Teaching a puppy to cleanliness is one of the essential concerns if your pet lives in an apartment. This is achieved by regular, perhaps more frequent walks with the puppy, especially immediately after waking him up and after eating. If he grows in rural areas and can freely leave the house when natural needs arise, then he stops dirtying the house by the age of three months. In urban conditions, it has to be resignedly cleaned up twice as long, since at an early age exchange the processes of the growing organism are very intensive, the baby recovers often, but simply cannot endure from walk to walk. It is useless to try to keep him clean by strict measures. The time will come, and he himself will learn to ask and endure until the allotted time.

The problem of cleaning will be solved a little easier if the puppy is taught to do "their own business" on a newspaper or a rag. To do this, at first it is necessary to capture the right moment and put the baby on time in the place intended for his departure. In the future, a rag or newspaper can be placed on a special baking sheet. But it is easier to accustom to this from a very early age - 25-35 days.

Teaching a nickname begins from the first days of the appearance of a puppy in the house. For ease of reference, it should be short and sonorous. The nickname serves as a signal to the puppy "Attention!". It is usually followed by some command, encouragement or other action of the owner in relation to the dog.

When accustoming a dog to a nickname, the trainer calls it and immediately reinforces the positive reaction of the pet with affection, delicacy, play or a pleasant command. You should never distort the nickname, giving it diminutive or other forms, or repeat it aimlessly and too often.

Getting used to the place. The puppy quickly gets used to the corner reserved for him, but it is necessary that he go there and remain in place when ordered. To do this, they try to catch the moment when the puppy wants to go to his bed himself (for example, after a walk), and give the command “to the place!”, And then encourage him for the desired action. In other cases, after the command "place!" the pupil is taken by the collar and placed on the bed. The strict tone of orders from the moment when the baby is in his corner is changed by the encouraging word "good", which is pronounced in soft, caressing intonations. Disobedience and attempts to leave the place are stopped by a strict repetition of the command or a slap.

When the technique is mastered, it is necessary to strictly ensure that, on orders, the puppy goes exactly to the place, and not under the bed, table or other shelter. Disobedience is stopped by taking the dog to its corner.

Leash training. Initially, the puppy is accustomed to the collar, which happens almost imperceptibly, since the collar does not constrain the dog.

It is necessary to accustom to a leash at the age of 2-3 months, after the pet has got used to the collar. At first, the puppy is taken on a leash for a very a short time, distracting from the attempt to resist caress, play and movement in the right direction. Gradually, he gets used to this state, especially since taking on a leash is carried out before a walk that is pleasant for the baby.

In order not to intimidate the puppy, teach him to the leash gently and gradually. Up to six months, the dog should not be pulled sharply, even if it sometimes pulls strongly forward. Later, they teach her to walk nearby, without pulling on the leash.

To do this, at first they lead the puppy to the left of the leader along the fence, wall and other obstacles, stopping his attempts to move forward with the “close!”

The most recalcitrant dogs are trained to walk side by side, using a parforation, which is mechanically tightened when the leash is pulled and loosened when it is lowered.

At first, the puppy has to be led on a short leash for the most part. Gradually, as the command is mastered, the reins are weakened, pulling it back only as needed.

The correct walk of the dog at the foot is encouraged by affection, the word "good"